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FT in Italy 2016 - preparations

Preparation for Italy Dear Friends Last year when I went to Italy and wrote a sort of running journal, my list of people to send it to g...

Wednesday, 5 October 2016


3 and 4 October

3 October pm
After a siesta we had our own Transitus service for Francis on the chapel here, Michael, one of the pilgrims, was Francis, with others taking the part of Leo, Rufino and Lady Jacoba and a narrator. Very moving and they did it well.

Soon after that they all went down to Porziuncola for the Transitus there with the Minister General giving a blessing with the relic. that makes it sound short but of course it wasnt, there were speeches of welcome etc from everyone to everyone, and especially from Assisi to Piedmont which is the district bringing the oil for the tomb of Francis this year. Then there was Evening Prayer and a long homily and finally the Blessing and more speeches and acceptance of the oil and more speeches! No corners are cut as a rule and this year seems to have been the same. i did not go as I went last year and think that will do, especially as I have now been through six holy doors and been to confession. No need to over do things!the six doors are St John Lateran, St Peter's, Rieti cathedral, San Rufino, Porziuncola and San Francesco. I hope you are impressed!

This evening, which means about 9.30, the people of Piedmont were given a free supper in the piazza by the comune. Tables and be chairs filled more than. Half of it and on the other half the young men i. Mediaeval costume and with their banners ready for the display, were hanging around. Some of them were really little boys but obviously proud of being there in the period costumes and with smaller banners. It is. Smart move on the part of the Comune to bring them in so young and get them enthused, it secures the major tourist attraction for the future apart from keeping a tradition alive! Drums started up at about 10.00 but I think we were all in bed by then, pilgrimaging is tiring and by now it begins to show. Almost everyone goes to bed soon after supper which is about 8.30/9.00 by the time it is finished.

4 October
Today was The Feast so we began with Morning Prayer in the chapel here at Casa Papa Giovanni, a nice morning prayer based in the Canticle of Creation and honouring the five elements though at this moment I cant recall what the fifth is!
After that we had a festive breakfast, which means that the pilgrims were offered bacon and scrambled eggs though this member of staff did not participate! Kumi, the nice Korean woman ate mine. She is the one who shocked us all by arriving off the plane in a wheelchair! In fact she has turned out to be a lovely, reflective woman, though walking a lot is not easy for her, she is very small boned and frail looking and has neuropathy n her feet. But she said the other day that she is much stronger for all the walking as at home she simply walks from the front door to the car. But she is going to go home with good resolutions! Breakfast once survived, we went down to the piazza to see the procession to the Basilica.
This was only ten minutes late when the trumpeters blew their trumpets and the drums drummed, ear splittingly resonant in the enclosed piazza as there were about 20 drummers with big drums like oil drums! When the procession came, it was lovely, preceded by all the school children of Assisi schools who had made symbols of the Canticle of Creation and all came through waving suns and moons and stars and flowers and rain drop etc, made of coloured card and mounted on drinking straws. They stole the show as you can imagine. Then all the guilds, led by those of Piedmont and closed by those of Assisi, came with banners and coloured scarfs though only Assisi wears mediaeval clothes. They look heavy and the women's dresses all drag on the ground and have trains which drag even more but would keep the mosquitoes out. That's for sure. The procession made its way down the hill to San Francesco for the Grand Mass with whichever grandees of the church were around and some of the pilgrims joined in, on fact I think they all did. Una, an Irish sister, was right in the middle with the guilds who either did not care or thought she belonged to somebody else. The upshot was that she got into the basilica and had a seat while the rest were asked for tickets which they did not have!!!

At 12.00 we had a festive Mass at the Casa, homily from ft, and then a very festive pranzo, beginning with a mouthful of salmon on a thin slice of bread with lemon and another tiny slice with some wort of fish paste, a superior sort of fish paste actually. This was followed by manicotti which is a thin lasagna rolled around mozzarella cheese mixed with spinach. Then came either slices of veal, chips and veg and, as they have done each day, they made me a vegetarian dish, which I have never asked for but much appreciated. Usually it is some variant on aubergines and cheese and this was too, but very tasty. Finally we wound up with a kind of ice cream saturated in something or other very nice, with enough thin slices of cake around the edge to hold it up! Wine flowed of course and afterwards the house was very quiet!

After a little riposo I went down to San Francesco to look at the frescoes as I do a presentation on those in the lower basilica. Andre does a masterly presentation for the upper basilica so I am challenged not to keep saying: not sure what that is! Every year it gets easier and I feel more confident and could do it without my notes but I take them for the dates. Then I came back, about 4pm, nothing until 7.30 so I sat in the shade on the roof garden and read. What a treat! About 6.30 it began to get chilly and I came in and wrote a bit of this journal.

The pilgrims were out on their own for cena and we had ours with two friends of Andre who are joining us for these few days, two nice people, both of italian extraction, here to celebrate their fiftieth wedding Anniversary. Then about 7pm Murray invited me into his room for a pre-cena drink, then we went to supper with the couple and drank some wine. Then Antonella, the lady, produced some Alverna, a herbal digestivo. So the conversation got better and better as you can imagine, also louder and louder in true Italian style.

On that rather disedifying note, i will leave you for this posting and do more later. Love and prayers to all.


Sunday, 2 October 2016

Bastia San Paolo and San Damiano

This morning we went to San Paolo in Bastia, where Clare went, accompanied by some of the friars, after they had received her into their fraternity at the Porziuncola. History does not record what the Benedictines felt or thought when she turned up at 2 or 3 in the morning with a bunch of scruffy young men, and in fact they did not take her into the enclosure but possibly into the guest house, or even the servants' quarters. This becomes quite clear when you are there as the chapel with the altar which scholars seem certain s the one to which she clung when. The family accosted her, is obviously not a big monastic choir and would never have had rooms for all the nuns. So must have been some sort of outside chapel. It is quite little, perhaps three times.  as big as our chapel in Hollington.

The sister who always used to being over the Mass things for us from their monastery in Bastia was called Sr Noemi. But about to years abo she was elected abbess s we have ny seen her. So it was a lovely aurprise when she came over herself together with the previous abbess, Madre Cecilia, who had been abbess when we had the Poor Clare pilgrimage and had gone to their monastery as they are the descendants of San Paolo. We had a nice chate, she told me that they had a profession last week but have also taken in six elderly sisters from two monasteries whch have had to close. The protomonastery have done the same, so it looks as if there have been several closures over the last year or so. I asked her if there was really nothing in their archives (which is what they had told me earlier) about the incident with Clare and her family, and she replied that she had been thinking about it too and thinks it possible that there is something on the archives of San Giuseppe in Assisi. When the monastery was invaded, the sisters grabbed what they could and fled, but went back late to collect other stuff. Some sisters went to Bastia but some also went into Assisi to the monastery of San Giuseppe. So I will write to them (sometime) and see if there is  anything there.

We had a beautiful Mass and we three Poor ClRes renewed our vows. The other two are both from the Philippines originally but now in different monasteries in USA. They are having a wonderful time, bowled over almost every day! They will go home exhausted but topped up for a long while t come.

So back to the Casa for pranzo and a minimal reposo since we were back in taxis at 3.45 to go to San Damiano for Clare, These are the Clare days. There were crowds of people there and since nobody is allowed to talk inside the monastery, i had to do all the input outside. Murray is on good terms with the Irish friars there, not sure how to spell his name but something like Eunan, and asked Eunan what was the reason for this new prohibition which makes things very difficult. He said that there had been some incidents and friars leading groups had been very confrontative wth the resident friars so the whole community in chapter had decided to insist on silence throughout the monastery. Understandable since it is not only their home but also their novitiate but hard n those who come there for a once in a lifetime visit. One our way back through the Piazza Cmune, there was a concert going on which we found was to raise money for those whose homes were damaged in the earthquake. This includes some of the Poor Clares, mainly those in Camerino as you probably know. I had a couple of letters to translate about it which Cortona were going to circulate.

We closed our visit to San Damiano by going into their small conference room where we had a Ritual of Healng. murray had found a little bottle of nard so we used that, the scent was wonderful and lingered. It was especially appropriate as at Bastia we had used the gospel about Mary anointing Jesus' feet with costly ointment, pure nard. People really gave themselves to the ceremony and it was very moving. As it is a small group we both anointed everyone and then Murray and I anointed each other. Then we hopped back into taxis and up to the Casa where their day was not finished since they had a lecture at 6 on the Office of the Passion in preparation to La Verna tomorrow and after supper Murray had a poetry reading. Everyone was tired but as he got into his stride they all got caught up in it and woke up and entered into the poems. He does it so well and the poems he uses are very accessible  and he introduces them well, so it is always a good experince.

A long day but a good one. Tomorrow off to the mountain, two hours nearly each way by bus, early start, 6.45. Breakfast, never my favourite moment, watch this space. Love to all and prayers in each place ft

Friday, 30 September 2016

29 September

today was the feast of one of the pilgrims, Michael, a nice Australian bloke (or cobber?!) and also the day we went to Santa Chiara. Big day for me. We began wit Mass at the tomb, which they only allow on two days a week, always a lovely Mass though I have big reservations about the tomb! After that we had a historical visit and they let us into the railed off transept to see the dossal and also to have prayer ritual in the San Damiano chapel. We think these favours are helped sllong by the fact that each year e carry all the coins collected in various boxes arnd the basilica, and change them into euros which the Italian banks will collect. This year i had nearly €400 worth of sterling. Luckily i am not the only english person here, there is also Sandra from Ladywell and she is taking some. It is not so much the money as the weight..i rustled up the money because John had paid me in euros already. When we collected the box it weighed a ton and Andre struggled along with his bad back. I offed to take a turn but he said it weighed more than I do. If only! Finally we put it in a knapsack and carried a handle each. They should have a nice little consignment when usa and australian dollars are all collected - or whateveer they have in Australia. Michael, our Aussie component checked ghe exchange rate for me and I was dismayed to find a pound is almost down to a euro, £10 is €11.5 all because of Brexit they hasten to tell me on many occasions. Clearly the rest f the world thinks we went mad and hope it is temporary. Sorry about the italics but if I stop for refinements, you wont get this. I had some problems bcasue I had forgotten the password and tried several last night in vain. Finally i went to bed and just now tried agan using, I would have sworn, all the same passwords but it seems to have worked. Now i am afrid to come out.
We are off to San Damiano for Clare in about five minutes and I must go and powder my  nose. More anon with love to one and all.

I heard last night that Andrea Williams had just died, she was a longstanding friend and so lovely. Please pray fr her and her children and grandchildren and all her friends.
ft


Sunday, 25 September 2016

23 September

chiesa Nuova and the Rocca
First mornong, we hit the ground running, lots to do from now on. So Morning Prayer at 7.15 on the roof top garden from which we could see the whole of Assisi spread put, and watch the rising sun on the mpuntains opposite. Gradually, as we greeted Assisi in words from several books, the sun spread baxk towards us across the valley. After Morning Prayer we pointed out various key features and what the different towers belonged to and so on. You could see people were really moved to be there, the first time for many of them, and  the hoe of many years. We had a quick breakfast and then down to the Chiesa Nuva, one of Francis' birthplaces, where we had Mass and an excellent homily from Andre about the way children interrupt and interfere with grown up plans, that this is what Francis did to the church and what many of the Church's children have done, to the Church's annoyance!

From there we went down to look at the supposed stanle ans the little chapel of Francescuccio, little Francis, where people still bring babies and small children for healing. Then a coffee break, we three went to the Bar Sensi to have coffee and pan cacciata, the autumn speciality with nuts in, delicious, a kind of spicey bread, part of the pilgrimage for me now. After that we met again and went to the house of Bernard of Quintavalle, still up for sale, nobody can afford it so the family who live there comtinue to do so. Probably the Comune wont let them leave it empty to fall to bits, but dont help sell it either. The pilgrims are full of plans to go to Chiara di Dio tonight, Monchael, a school teacher is organising them in the manner born, and the whole lot are going to eat cena together and then on to the the theatre. I hope it is good and they love it.

They had a break after pranzo and a lecture from Murray on Francis and non-violence, after which we toiled up to the Rocca, quite a climb and a couple of pilgrims are not really nimble enough for it, nt to mention Murray and me!! Once ghe he gave a good historical input and we had a prayer service based around an imagined dialogue between the Sultan and Francis. Then we had time to prayer for different  intentions around violence, war etc etc. After cena, the long day got longer be ause we showed them the Liliana Cavani film about Francis, the one with Helena Bonham Carter. I have lost count how often I have seen it now, but I still see something new in it each time. It was long and did not end until nearly 11pm. Actually they are going to Vhiara di Dio the next noght, Saturday, something has gne wrong here! Sorry. I think i will post ths and then do Saturday separately. Love to all ft

Thursday, 22 September 2016

Transfer to Assisi

This morning we went to the fourth sanctuary in this Rieti Valley, that of La Foresta, to a place where Francis often came. In fact he came so much that the people used to come out of Rieti to see him and one autumn, they ate all the grapes from the vineyard of the parish priest. He was upset because that was his wine supply for the year. But Francis promised him that he would have as much wine as usual and maybe more if he did not grumble or give out to the people but shared what he had with them. The priest did this and Francis' promise came true. La Foresta is also the place run by the group of young men called Mondo X. Previous readers will know what that is but for the new readers, it is a movement started by one of the friars, now 85 but still very much with his hand on the tiller. His belief was that the Franciscan Rule offered immense potential for healing and gradually over the years it has become a way of life for young people in trouble, whether with drugs, alcohol, sex or whatever, They live a very simple life, growing all their own food as far as possible, and the 'programme' is basically that sharing and fraternity are healing. They have a lot of sharing, and a lot of work and also pray together. When a young person comes, they commit themselves for three years and after that they can either leave to a more ordinary life or if they wish stay as long as they want. The basic philosophy is that as they create beauty outside in their environment, they also create beauty within themselves and that beauty is healing. To the visitor, the place is certainly beautiful and well cared for. As always, we asked if one of them would come and explain their lives to the pilgrims, which they did. It is a good example of Franciscan principles in action today. They also said that the whole place was badly shaken during the earthquake and that they all slept out in the garden for ten days until the quakes topped and the place was considered safe to return to.

So after Mass in the pre-Francis chapel of San Fabiano, and the talk from the young man,  the pilgrims had a quick historical visit and then some time on their own. We returned to the Villa Cabrini for an early lunch and just after 2 we were on the road to Assisi. This journey takes almost two hours perhaps a little longer and by half past four we were unloading all the cases from the coach onto the pavement. Marcello who runs the taxi firm and his son Massimo were waiting and put everything into taxis as you cant take a coach into the city of Assisi, the streets are too narrow. As it was we had to turn back at one point and come into Assisi from a different angle than usual as the bus was five centimetres too high to go under an arch. Usually the bus drives in through the village of Violi and Andre persuaded the bus driver to do so today. However the smart driver saw a notice about the arch. So we turned back and went another way which in fact was much nicer since we went along the valley towards the Porziuncola with some beautiful views of Assisi up on its hill. Personally I thought i t much nicer.

Once the baggage was loaded Murray and I started walking the pilgrims through the town, encouraging the inveterate photo takers and shoppers that they have 15 days to come back! Finally we got all of them to Casa Papa Giovanni and the rooms allocated and luggage off to the right room. Fortunately there seem among our 13 a number of strong ones who are very happy to carry cases and help the less strong. So in no time all was sorted. They then had space until 5 when we all met  and they had an introduction on a practical level, for instance all were given maps and told various bits and pieces of info which I suspect most forget and then have to rediscover from themselves. Hopefully they will remember things like that the house is locked at 10.30!! After that Murray took them on an introductory tour of the city and I joined later, and took them on to S Chiara to pay our respects to the Lady. I was very touched that Sr Fidelis, the extern sister who was on duty in the church, remembered me and greeted me very warmly. I promised to arrange for the two Poor Clares in the group to visit the Protomonastery. Sr Fidleis has reason to remember me because annually she gives us the coins which pilgrims and tourists have put in their candle box, as the banks wont accept the foreign coins. So we exchange them for paper money euros and then talk the pilgrim into carrying the coins home. Fortunately there is a nice FMDM on the pilgrimage so she will help me with the sterling, as last year my case weighed a ton with a big bag of coppers and 10p bits!

Soon after that we had supper, pretty noisy as there is another group here of USA college students. At one of the Catholic schools in USA they do a senior programme in Franciscan studies at the end of which they bring the students to Assisi for a week or so. We have met them in previous years too. They are a very impressive bunch of young people and all the teachers in our own group are impressed by how well behaved they seem to be. But the dining room was full and the noise level high!

So that brings that day to an end, more anon! Tomorrow we go the the reputed birthplace of Francis and in the afternoon climb up to the Rocca and have a peace service. Love to one and all and please keep praying. I am remembering everyone everywhere, often in a large sort of way like that but God has you all sorted out OK as do Francis and Clare for sure. Lots of love ft