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FT in Italy 2016 - preparations

Preparation for Italy Dear Friends Last year when I went to Italy and wrote a sort of running journal, my list of people to send it to g...

Sunday 9 October 2016

Dear All - this may be the last blog, not sure. I am also aware that I have missed out on a few places, sanctuaries and events which I will try and mop up now before I forget.

I know I said nothing about the wonderful day we had at La Verna where the weather was beautiful, and the Australian pilgrim and the two Poor Clares (not this one) climbed the mountain and came back with stunning photos of the mountain panorama all round them. Coming back in the bus we read to the pilgrims the letter which is read on the refectory on 30 September each year, the day of Francis' last departure from there. This letter is Brother Masseo's account Francis leaving for the last time and saying farewell to the mountain and the falcon, thanking them, and to the rocks which had sheltered him. It is a very moving letter which I just managed to read aloud without getting choked up. Having had only cestini, bread and cheese or salami for the meat eaters, and water to drink, we were all glad of a very nice pasta supper when we got back to Casa Papa Giovanni.

One day we went down to San Rufino d'Arce, the church of the young Rufino, martyred because he would not lie. This is cared for by some Franciscan sisters, who welcomed us warmly as always, we had Mass there and then a short ritual in honour of St MaryAnne Cope who worked among the lepers at Molokai with Damian. She is one of the first canonised saints of USA and so especially dear to the Americans. Then on to the even smaller church of La Maddalena where it is probable that Clare and her sisters came to work with the lepers in the early days. This is not only a tradition in Assisi but also we know that Francis sent all those who joined him in the early days to spend time among the lepers, and that for a while this counted as a novitiate. We also know that he did nothing to make anything easier for Clare and it seems most probable that he would have insisted that she, Agnes, Pacifica and Filippa learnt in that same school. If so, this is the logical place, the chapel of the women lepers and just down the hill from San Damiano. There we had a ritual replicating the 'funeral' service which was said over any poor wretch diagnosed with leprosy, when they were given their begging bowl, bell and clapper to warn people, told,always to stand downwind of anyone, not to approach anyone. It was a real death sentence, but a living death and could go on for years. Down at that actual place and looking up the hill towards Assisi, you can imagine how terrible that must have been to know that your family, friends, home and everything were there but unattainable. Actually when I looked at my choice collection of mosquito bites, in spite of anti-zanzare spray, i wondered how many them had other things than leprosy. Each year there was a new podestà and one of his first duties was to go through the town and seek out any new lepers and remove them.

On the 6th the day began with Mass at the tomb of Francis followed by a presentation on the art of the upper basilica (Andre) and then the lower basilica (me - it went OK). At the end of all that they were all pretty bombed out. I went off and had an espresso n the self-service place then felt up to climbing the hill. Towards the top I met Luisa and Isabel, the two USA Poor Clares so we had yet another  photocall. We also met in the afternoon and had a gelato together and a good chat as a result of which I forgot there was a lecture at 5.00 on finding the tombs, and that I was supposed to be there to do finding Clare's tomb. By the grace of God and my two guardian angels, I arrived on tome to do my half.

The day after St Francis was the Fair in Assisi. It began with Morning Prayer and then a festive breakfast. The next day too was festive food as it was our last meal together since they had supper put on their own. The kit hen pulled put all the stops and gave us a  festive pranzo, which started with an antipasto of truffles on a thin slice of bread and some little round rusk like biscuits with mozarella and an olive, very tasty!  Then it closed as it should, with Tiramisù and champagne! During the day while the feast was on, pranzo was put on their own. I think my meal descriptions are getting a. T confused but never mind, I know people always Iike to hear about food! N one of these days, maybe the day of the feast, Murray went put and bought porchetta for himself and Andre also two friends of Andrè who were there. Porchetta is a slice of young pig which is roasted whole with traditional herbs then eaten cold with good local bread. Since I dont eat meat I too went shopping at the stalls and bought a huge slice of Piedmontese focaccia bread with olives and tomatoes in, also some pecorello (sheep or goat's milk)  cheese and a small jar of honey to go with it, some olives and coils of liquorice which I treated myself to. I also stocked up on striped socks!  So lunch was a light hearted affair and as I suspected everyone tucked into the focaccia bread as well as their own porchetta.

I also managed to call in at the art shop where the work of several artists is represented, and he was offering me, thanks to Murray's introduction, a couple of pictures which I might like for the cover of volume four part two. Alssandro, the man in the shop, had put them on a flash drive for me but  one would not load so he redid it. We shall see. The deal is that he and his brother who is the artist, have a copy each which they display in shop or studio and I have the picture for free. Sounds good me.

Then finally we arrived at the closing ritual which was a bit early as two of the pilgrims were having to lave the night before. They had gelled into such a lovely group that we wanted to. Ring it to a close while everyone was there, which is what happened. After some readings and prayer, each of us said a little something and then we gave each pilgrim a Tau cross and sent them off to be 'champions f the Tau' in the words of Innocent III. Then next morning it was up early and on the bus by 4.30 to head for Rome and the first flight out for USA. That was this morning, though it seems like a lifetime away but as the evening moves on, it feels like I have not been to bed for a very long time, so that is all I am going to write tonight!

Love and prayers to one and all
ft

News from Rome

Dear All - this may be the last blog, not sure. I am also aware that I have missed out on a few places, sanctuaries and events which I will try and mop up now before I forget.

I know I said nothing about the wonderful day we had at La Verna where the weather was beautiful, and the Australian pilgrim and the two Poor Clares (not this one) climbed the mountain and came back with stunning photos of the mountain panorama all round them. Coming back in the bus we read to the pilgrims the letter which is read on the refectory on 30 September each year, the day of Francis' last departure from there. This letter is Brother Masseo's account Francis leaving for the last time and saying farewell to the mountain and the falcon, thanking them, and to the rocks which had sheltered him. It is a very moving letter which I just managed to read aloud without getting choked up. Having had only cestini, bread and cheese or salami for the meat eaters, and water to drink, we were all glad of a very nice pasta supper when we got back to Casa Papa Giovanni.

One day we went down to San Rufino d'Arce, the church of the young Rufino, martyred because he would not lie. This is cared for by some Franciscan sisters, who welcomed us warmly as always, we had Mass there and then a short ritual in honour of St MaryAnne Cope who worked among the lepers at Molokai with Damian. She is one of the first canonised saints of USA and so especially dear to the Americans. Then on to the even smaller church of La Maddalena where it is probable that Clare and her sisters came to work with the lepers in the early days. This is not only a tradition in Assisi but also we know that Francis sent all those who joined him in the early days to spend time among the lepers, and that for a while this counted as a novitiate. We also know that he did nothing to make anything easier for Clare and it seems most probable that he would have insisted that she, Agnes, Pacifica and Filippa learnt in that same school. If so, this is the logical place, the chapel of the women lepers and just down the hill from San Damiano. There we had a ritual replicating the 'funeral' service which was said over any poor wretch diagnosed with leprosy, when they were given their begging bowl, bell and clapper to warn people, told,always to stand downwind of anyone, not to approach anyone. It was a real death sentence, but a living death and could go on for years. Down at that actual place and looking up the hill towards Assisi, you can imagine how terrible that must have been to know that your family, friends, home and everything were there but unattainable. Actually when I looked at my choice collection of mosquito bites, in spite of anti-zanzare spray, i wondered how many them had other things than leprosy. Each year there was a new podestà and one of his first duties was to go through the town and seek out any new lepers and remove them.

On the 6th the day began with Mass at the tomb of Francis followed by a presentation on the art of the upper basilica (Andre) and then the lower basilica (me - it went OK). At the end of all that they were all pretty bombed out. I went off and had an espresso n the self-service place then felt up to climbing the hill. Towards the top I met Luisa and Isabel, the two USA Poor Clares so we had yet another  photocall. We also met in the afternoon and had a gelato together and a good chat as a result of which I forgot there was a lecture at 5.00 on finding the tombs, and that I was supposed to be there to do finding Clare's tomb. By the grace of God and my two guardian angels, I arrived on tome to do my half.

The day after St Francis was the Fair in Assisi. It began with Morning Prayer and then a festive breakfast. The next day too was festive food as it was our last meal together since they had supper put on their own. The kit hen pulled put all the stops and gave us a  festive pranzo, which started with an antipasto of truffles on a thin slice of bread and some little round rusk like biscuits with mozarella and an olive, very tasty!  Then it closed as it should, with Tiramisù and champagne! During the day while the feast was on, pranzo was put on their own. I think my meal descriptions are getting a. T confused but never mind, I know people always Iike to hear about food! N one of these days, maybe the day of the feast, Murray went put and bought porchetta for himself and Andre also two friends of Andrè who were there. Porchetta is a slice of young pig which is roasted whole with traditional herbs then eaten cold with good local bread. Since I dont eat meat I too went shopping at the stalls and bought a huge slice of Piedmontese focaccia bread with olives and tomatoes in, also some pecorello (sheep or goat's milk)  cheese and a small jar of honey to go with it, some olives and coils of liquorice which I treated myself to. I also stocked up on striped socks!  So lunch was a light hearted affair and as I suspected everyone tucked into the focaccia bread as well as their own porchetta.

I also managed to call in at the art shop where the work of several artists is represented, and he was offering me, thanks to Murray's introduction, a couple of pictures which I might like for the cover of volume four part two. Alssandro, the man in the shop, had put them on a flash drive for me but  one would not load so he redid it. We shall see. The deal is that he and his brother who is the artist, have a copy each which they display in shop or studio and I have the picture for free. Sounds good me.

Then finally we arrived at the closing ritual which was a bit early as two of the pilgrims were having to lave the night before. They had gelled into such a lovely group that we wanted to. Ring it to a close while everyone was there, which is what happened. After some readings and prayer, each of us said a little something and then we gave each pilgrim a Tau cross and sent them off to be 'champions f the Tau' in the words of Innocent III. Then next morning it was up early and on the bus by 4.30 to head for Rome and the first flight out for USA. That was this morning, though it seems like a lifetime away but as the evening moves on, it feels like I have not been to bed for a very long time, so that is all I am going to write tonight!

Love and prayers to one and all
ft