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FT in Italy 2016 - preparations

Preparation for Italy Dear Friends Last year when I went to Italy and wrote a sort of running journal, my list of people to send it to g...

Saturday 17 September 2016

17 September Tagliacozzo

today we all. Piled into the us again, the same grumpy driver doing everything he could to redeem himslef. He took us by a new and much better route onto the autostrada and off we went towards Tagliacozzo,malmost two hours' drive. We drove up into the Alban Hills, covered with trees and with bare rock  coming through dramatically. Tagliacozzo is a small hill top village in what is now the ski resort area (or will be when it snows) but is also the resting place of the body of Thomas of Celano. francis' first biographer. When we arrived, finally but after a good ride, we walked up the narrow cobbled streets through the small piazza and on up to the 13 th century friary at the top of the hill. There the guardian greeted us, as friendly as he had been inprevious years and, truly or not, gave every impression of remembering we three which is always nice. After a quick look round we had the two lectures, on the sources for Francis and the sources for Clare and there was a very lively discussion at the end which was also nice. We had Mass in the church wirh the body of Thomas of Celano lying in his  iche in the wall. he too seems mostly incirrupt in that the face, hands and feet yousee are his actual ones. His feet, turned up at the bottom of the glass case, looked rather flattened, more like flippers and his face was a dark greyish brown colour. We wondered what he thought of his grey conventual habit, it is a convential church! Andre gave the homily about thr power of words and then of The Word, and we prayed for all writers which was nice.

Then we progressed to the Hotel Mariana for the lunch of the year. We had a mere four courses with several side sihes ending with a pale of choice desserts each, a profoterole, fresh with real cream, a small pot of ice cream, and a sort of white tiramisu but when we asked him what it was called he said it was not tiramisu but a speciality unique to his house and, we suspect, his mother since although pretty ancient, she is clearly the queen of the kitchen! We were all overfull, just what I ahe come determined to avoid, and took some scarmoza home as a soggy bag. Scarmoza is a delicious dih of cheese which would not be difficult to do, it is not unlike the hot cheese we used to have in Arundel, but thr slices are thin, dipped in flour and the fried in olive oil until the have browned a bit,

Finally really fulll ans cheered by the fact that one of them got locked in the loo but was fianlly rescued, we piled sleepily int the bus. The driver had had the same lunch and was not at all grumpy. He said he made what sounds like a  ery nice onion chutney that he called marmalade, and tomorrow he is going to give me the mrecipe. Encouraged  y this he then said he had made a specail liqueur and if we brough glasses, we could try it. So tomorrow we will climb in the bus armed with 16 bicchierini and see what happens!!!

So now i am more or less up to date. Tomorrow is a lexture on prayer,mwalk to St Peter's for the Sunday audience, bqck for pranzo and off to Rieti in the coach. So my toothbrush is packed and this is more or less up to date. Andre had two cousins up from the south and here for supper last night, so he invited Murraya nd myself to sit with them ober supper as they speak nnenglish, though the older one Marissa, says she reads it but is baxd at speaking. So i have invited her for a crash course in Hollington! We shall see! Love to all ft

16 September with large groups on either side singing loudly in some unknown to gue! However this year, we made our way straight to John XXIII as soonas everyone was through security and had walked throug their second holy door

I got, up an hour early by mistake so thought I would continue with this and try to catch myself up before we leave Rome.

On 16 September, we had the great St Peter's day. This always involves an early start as they like to have the Masses finished before theyoen the doors to pilgrims and worse. So we had Mass scheduled for the tomb of John XXIII though until it happens, you never know if it will happen. But this year it did. The last coupld of years we have been bundled into an underground and airless chapel but this year we were in luck. So as soon as everyone had been through security and walked through their second holy door in two days, we all made our way to the tomb of John XXIII for Mass at 8.00. There was the usual crowd but the pilgrims were very adroit at seizing a seat on the two benches as soon as one became free. Then we saw Murray vested in red making his way from the far off sacristy preceded by a minute server who cant have been more then ten and who had Murray firmly under control! We had a lovely Mass and a beautiful homily from Murray about thenincarnation and how it is happening all the time in us, ending with a poem from Simeon the New Theologian,who died in 10something about how the reality of the incarnation is such that when I look at my hand, i am looking at Christ's hand and that this is truth not fantasy which has the power to transform the way we see ourselves.

After Mass ther was a break because tour style visits cant start until 9.00. Although all this organising is a biit of a nuisance, you can se ehow they are trying to make this central church available to all and still keep it as a place of prayer even though some thousands pass through it every day. No small task.

Andre gave his usual excellent presentstion which takes over an hour. We hire headphones so he speaks into a small microphone, there were dozens of such groups going round in dozens of languages and all on a sllightly different wave length of  radio so we dont hear each other. Very clever.

Almost as soon as we had entered St Peter's, the rain poured down in gallons, but by the time we came out, it had stopped, good timinng going on somewhere! After Mass, Murray appeared ina smart white T Shirt with the year of Mercy logo on. He said he had got soaked and dripped all overe the marble floor of the sacristy and had to buy a new shirt! The sisters who run the sacristy all  came to his rescue and toook his shirt to dry during Mass. He then went back to Tra Noi. The pilgrims had time on their own in the basilica and then pranzo out on their own. I went with Michael, pne of the pilgrims, to he hom sort put the SIM on his phone as  well as dping the same for myself and also to put money onAndre's phone. I did this first then Michael the Australian pilgrim took all te wind out of our sails by going up to the clever ypung Chinese  lad at the counter and addressing him in fluent
Mandarin! So I left him to it as he was clmearly ok! The clever lad could not do my phone as it was a different server, Wind not Tm. So I took a taxi to another shop, waited half and hour only to be told they did nt do Wind either. So i began dolefully to walk to the next one, almosta mile up the hill in heavy traffic when, much to  my relief, it began to rain so I decided to go home. On the way I went into a panneteria and bought two fresh panini, some cheese and olves with chilli in which the woman kindly made into two big baps for my lunch. This cost me 3 euros, about £2.50, and included two pars and some grapes and I had a lovely lunch Listening to  music and relaxing.
It was a free afternoon, i did some trabslati for CTC about the earthquake in Italy, some of the Poor Clares have had massive damage and are in dire financial straits as they have not yet paid for the last lot of repairs from the previous earthquake,i also spent some time reading up about Margaret of Cortona as we are going to her shrine instead of the capuchin place at Le Celle where the parking has become so difficult. I am sure somethi else happene but it eludes me utterly.mso sorry. Love to one and all ft
This is the view from my first room, looking into the Pamphili Gardens. The green in the foreground is where the parakeets seem to hang out. There are very few birds here, as in former years, though lots of grey and black European crows and the racketty parakeets and seagulls - home from home!

15 September San Francesco a Ripa and St John Lateran

Dear All
We have had a full few days and it is already hard to remember them. I keep hoping to get into a regular pattern but so far have not managed it.
Three days ago we have our first full day with a morning visit to San Francesco a Ripa which is the only church in Rome dedicated to St Francis. it is  built on the land of Francis' great friend and supporter, the Lady Giacoba dei Settesoli, and as we drove there past the huge Circus Maximus we saw the tower which is all that remains of the great Settesoli palazzo. arriving at the church we had Mass celebrated by !Murray, homily from ft on the cloud of witnesses that go with us, and historical visit by Andre. Then back into the bus to return to Tra Noi for  Pranzo. As usual we asked the bus driver to return past the Gianicolum where the view of the whole of Rome is so spectacular. However he did not want to for some reason so he said he did not know the way. This is the equivalent of a London taxi driver not knowing where Buckingham Palace is! It did not get him very far since Andre said firmly that it did not matter bevause he knew the way well. Anyhow we went and the view was as spectacular as one could wish but the driver got his own back by saying he was not allowed to stop and let us off. this is possiblh true but has never been a problem before! Anyway we drove around and this little confrontation was lost one the pilgrims fortunately. But as we had this driver for the next three days, it did not bode well. In fact after pranzo when the bus came to take us to St John Lateran, there was a different driver and a general air of pouring oil around!

St John Lateran was as impressive as ever, and much more enjoyable now we dont try to have Mass there! So we had a peacful historical visit but before that was the door! Prior to leaving Tra Noi we had a short ritual based on going through a holy door, with a scripture reading and a short reflection, then when we got there, we gathered outside the door and said three short prayers and then, in silence, walked through the door. The huge doorway of St John Latern was decorated with flowers (artificialI am sorry to say but very colourful) with the inevitable armed guard discreetly nearby. But as I walked through the door, I was overwhelmed, to  my total surprise, by a sense of doing something momentous and important and full of grace. So you never know! Then we took them round the interiror, as big as one and a half football pitches, and saw the tomb of Innocent III as well as Leo XIII? Ther was time then to look around and take more photos of the amazing floor, like the one at the head of this blog. After supper i think some of the energetic went down to St Peter's again which is not all that far and people dont want to miss a thing though you cant get in at that hour. This is not because it is shut since it is open but the queue to get in is all the way round the piazza and takes ages to wend its way through security. We had also had the group photo taken at St John Lateran this year because, owing to security, you cant easily get a group out of St Peter's for a photo and back in again.
I think I will post this and then tell you about St Peter's and Tagliacozzo separately. i am getting messages that this system is working OK for most people, I,hope that is true and not a fantasy.
Love to one and all, i remember you all in almost everywhere!